Improvement in sewing-machine for sewing turned shoes



- w. DUCHEMIN.

Sewing'Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes. No. 91,101.; Patented June 3, 1869.

2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

' 2 SheetsSheet 2. W. DUCHEMINV A Sewing Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes.

" Patented June 8, 1869.

(R r h N E Q m h mgm KY ,w R w E V @H R H EH 1 .mwuwfi UNITED STATES PATENT QFFIGE.

W'ILLIAM DUGHEMIN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO GEORGE B. BTGELOW, TRUSTEE, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINE FOR SEW ING TURNED SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 91,101, dated J 11110 8, 1869.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DUoHEMrN, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improved Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes; and I do hereby declare that the following is so full and exact description thereof as to enable others skilled in theart tomake and use my invention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings and to the letters of reference marked thereon.'

To assist the mind in following the description of this machine the same letter, with a number annexed, is used for all'parts of the device that act directly together to produce a desired result.

Drawings. 7

Figure l isa perspective view.- Fig. 2 is a front elevation, showiu g the principal working parts of the machine. Fig. 3 is a cross vertical section of the same. Fig. 4 shows the position of the needle and needle-guard while passing through the shoe. Fig. 5 is a section of the fingers as'they appear when open to clasp the thread. 'Fig. 6 shows the fingers in section, closed, giving the thread a quarterturn. Fig. 7 shows the loop formed by the withdrawal of the thread-carrier,'the fingers being shown in section, as before.

E in all the drawings is the propelling-shaft for the whole machine, and has attached to it the cam-wheels E E ll E N,'Figs. 2 and 3, is the fixed point or gauge, which serves as a guide, against which the workman holds the shoe while it is being sewed. F F is the pressure-bar, F being the pressure-foot, whose.

function is to press down on the shoe and hold it firmly while the stitch is being formed. This pressure-bar is operated as follows: A spiral spring located immediately behind F not shown in the drawings, serves to throw it up, while the cam-rod F, acting through the lever F moves the pressure-bar down. This cam-rod F has a roller, F which is acted upon by the periphery of the cam-wheel E and is pressed down and so held, excepting the time that the depression f f, Figs. 2 and 3, in the periphery of E is immediately over it. At such time the spiral spring spoken of above is free to lift up the pressure-bar F and thus free the work for the action of the feed. At the same time that the pressure-footrelieves the work the cam Q. on E operating through the lever Q and link Q Fig. 3, vand the bent lever Q Q, Fig. 1, releases the standard P by withdrawing. the wedge-Q Q thus allowing the arm P, which is supported by the standard P, to be depressed sufiiciently to allow the workman to turn the shoe. 3Winging upon the pivot G and operated by the peripheral cam-slot between the camwheels E E actuates the feed-point G G. The feed-point G G swings on a pivot, G said pivot being free to slide in the plate '0.

G G are guides fastened to the plate (J, which serve to limit the tipping-motion of the feedpoint G G. Thus, as the point is pushed forward its rear end will swing upward toward the upper guide G while its forward or work ing end will be sufficiently depressed to impinge against the article to be fed forward; but when the feed-point is thrown backward its working point is elevated so as to free itself from the stock and not carry it backward. The amount ofmotion given to the feed'point-- in other words, the length of the stitch-is regulated by the slotted guide G Fig. 2, which is held in any desired position by the screw G. The plates K and J Fig. 3, are connected to the face-plate G, and are provided with circular slots K J In the slot K the needle-carrier K traverses, while in the slot J the needleguard carrier J 3 traverses. This needlecarrier K is operated by the cam-rod K, while the needle-guard carrier J 3 is operated by the cam-rod J, Fig. 2. The radial arm 1? and its adjuncts are peculiar in construction and op eration. The arm]? is attached to a segment, P This segment is a part of a circle the center of which is near the upper end of the arm P, and is concentric with the curved surface of the upper end of the arm 1?, so that when P} slides in the grooves made in P 'l? the upper end of the arm 1 maintains its relative position in all respects with relation to the guide N-in other words, the upper end of the arm P is not moved out of position by any movement of the lower end so long as the segment P is within the grooves in J? P By this arrangement any part of a shoe may be sewed. By raising the lower end of the arm The feed-lever G,

Pthe whole arm will assume nearly a horizonfollows: Having. threaded the needle K and tal position, and will extend to the extreme tip or toe of a shoe. nearly a vertical position the heel of the shoe may be sewed. The thread-carrier L is connected to the curved slide L, which is operated by the cam-rod L acting through the lever L on theback of the plate 0, shown in Fig. 2 by dotted lines. The lingers F F Figs. 2 and 3, are peculiar in shape and action, and serve to seize one of the threads and place it in the proper position for forming the loop. They are operated as follows: They close by passing each other edgewise and in line with the center joint of the said fingers. When the jaws are opened, for the purpose of seizin g the thread brought forward by the threadc'arrier L for forming the loop, they assume the position shown in Fig. 5. When closed, with the thread between them, they are as represented in Fig. 6; and when the thread-carrier has receded the loop is fully made, as is shown in Fig. 7 said loop being at right angles .with the loop when it is first brought forward by the thread-carrier L and between the nee dle K and the feed G having received in its formation a full quarter-turn for that purpose. WVhen the fingers are thrown back, as will be hereafter described, the loop will be between the thread-carrier L and the needle K and in such a position that the thread-carrier must pass through this loop, formed by its own thread, before passing under the thread brought forward by the needle K. The sprin g F, Fig. 3, serves to keep the fingers closed, unless they are opened, as they are at the proper time, by the action of the lever 11 H through the lever 1-1 The side cam E serves to move H. The lateral reciprocating motion of the fingers is caused by the link 11- working in conjunction with the sprin F. The link M is connected to the finger F by means of the screw F, and motion is communicated to it by the bent lever M, which is connected with the link M, which in turn is operated by the thread-carrier slide L The link M draws the upper end of the fingers F F over toward the left until the hook F, which is attached to F catches upon the pin F7. The fingers are held in this position until the arm. F, which is connected to the pressure-foot F rises sufficiently to raise the hook F oii the pin F. This releases the upper end of the fingers, and the spring 'F draws them over to the right, in the position shown in Fig. 2. J Figs. 2 and 3, is the needle-guard, circular in form, and round in section to within a quarter of an inch of the point, where it is concavo-convex in section. In forming the point, the upper or concave side must be exactly the reverse of the shape of the lower side of the needle K so that the guard may underlie the point of the needle in such a manner that the needle and needle-guard together will form, as it were, a continuous needle and move together through the same perforation,

thus preventing the thin upper stock from bein g torn by catching on the point of the needle.

By bringing the arm to The method of operating my machine is as thread-carrier L which is done by placing the thread through the eye of each from the. under side, the operator places the shoe in such a manner between the arm P and the sewinggauge N that the point of the gauge N shall be inside of and follow the channel cut for sewing on the sole. The sole is then pressed up against the sewinggauge N by the spiral springs P and is kept firmly in its place, during the process of driving the needle and drawin g the thread to form the stitch, by the wedge Q Q}. WVhen the shoe is thus secured, the pressure-bar F", Fig. 2, is brought into position, and presses firmly the upper-leather oi the shoe and keeps it in place while the stitch is being made. The needle-guard J, by the action of the cam E on the rod J, is brought down just sufficient to pierce the upper-leather of the shoe. There it remains stationary until met by the point of the needle K when it assumes the position shown in Fig. 4. It'now recedes as the needle advances, the point oi the needle K being just above and touching the point'of the needle-guard J which thus forms a guard, that the needle may not tea: the thin upper-stock of the shoe.- The needle, having come forward the full length of the stitch, is drawn back sufliciently to slack the thread enough to allow the threadcarrier L to pass between the needle K and its thread, said thread being upon the upper side of said needle, when the needle K remains stationary long enough to enable the thread-carrier L to perform its part of the work,'which consists in bringnig forward a second thread, that is caught and held in place by the fingers F The fingers F and F act as follows: When the thread-carrier L being acted on by the cam E has brought forward the thread, the fingers being opened by the action of the cam lever H and moved forward by the mechanism M M M M? M comes in'such a position as to catch the thread of the thread-carrier L then the pressure of the cam-lever H is removed and the lower end of the fingers seize the thread. Now the thread-carrier L recedes, leaving the thread, which is thus made to form a loop at right angles with the loop of the needle K The needle K is then brought back to its original position, and a stitch is formed. The pressure-bar F is now'relieved from the action of the cam E and, through the agency of a spring, not shown, it rises.- In rising, a small bar, F, touches the hook F relieving the fingers from the position in which they were brought when they caught the thread of the carrier L Now, by the action of the spring F they are brought back to their original position, still retaining the loop in such a posi tion that the thread-carrier L can pass through it, before passing the needle K in making the succeeding stitch. The wedge Q Q is then drawn back, relieving I? from its fixed position, so that the arm I maybe depressed, and thus allow the shoe to be moved forward the length of a stitch by the feed G5 The lower end of the bar F F is to be constructed in form the exact reverse, on its under side, of the upper surface of the tip of the arm P P. In practice this bar has a tooth inserted in its lower face for the purpose of preventing the upper stock from slipping While the stitch is being made. i

In this application Ido not particularly claim the supporting-arm P P, nor the reciprocating bar F F, they being claimed in an applicatio filed by ine January 23, 1869; but a That I do claim, having thus described my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent is-- 1. The needle-guard J, constructed as described, in combination with the needle K when operating together, as described, and for the purpose set forth.

2. The wedge Q Q in combination with the standard P and the arm P 1?, arranged and working substantially as described, and for the purpose set forth.

3-. The fingers F 11, or their equivalents, when operated substantially as described to seize the loop and give it a quarter-turn, substantially as described, and for the purpose set forth.

4. The thread-carrier L arranged and working, in combination with the fingers F and F substantially as described, and for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed mynamc to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

' WILLM. DUCHEMIN.

VVItIIGSSGSZ "JOHN BIGELOW,

Josnrn R, EDSON. 

